The new Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3" soldering station controller for JBC/T12 - pump control/electromagnetic valve
- Price: $27.90 (Set 2)
What came out of it under KAT-om (a lot of text and photos - traffic)
В магазинах торгующих продукцией KSGER (как на Али, так и на Тао), уже примерно второй месяц, есть в продаже новый контроллер паяльной станции Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3.
Looked at him in terms of buying. I wanted to know what Chinese inventors-rationalizers had in there. And then my brother, aka leha_marader,asked him to collect a soldering station. And as if hearing our desires, the store itself offered to take this controller for review. To say that I decided to take or not to take for a long time is to say nothing. The controller was immediately bought for a symbolic $2 and after 3 weeks was delivered by courier to the home address.
The parcel is an unassuming white mail bag with postal information
It has a cardboard box with the KSGER logo and the kit number
Box sizes 17 x9 x11cm
Weight 218grams
Inside the kit itself
Packed all very well, the components are tightly fixed with crumpled paper and "puvel"
So, what came:
Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3 and 2 plume with BP and GX12-5 connector connector
- HAKKO FX-9501 soldering stick
GX12-5 connector
- and as a bonus from the store - soldering sting KSGER T12-BL
Let's take a closer look at the components that have arrived in more detail.
Let's start with the Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3 controller board
The fee has sizes of 62 x 30mm
2mm wider than v2.1S
The installation is two-way.
On one side are: controller, EEPROM, voltage stabilization chains and power part, as well as connectors.
On the back are a OLED_1.3" display and an encoder.
Installation fee
The heart of the board is the controller U1
Stabilized power for the microcontroller and its strapping provides IMS U2 in the SOT-223 case, output voltage of 3.3 volts
The amplification of the signal from the heat vapor of the soldering sting provides the U3 operating amplifier
EEPROM U4 is used to store PID ratios
The power part includes:
is a soldering control channel: MOSFET 1 and the transistor in control of it, the
- Pump/electromagnetic valve engine control channel: MOSFET
To update the firmware on the circuit board, the SWD connector contacts, its C-D-G-V wiring, Clock, Data, GND, z3.3V.
An OLED display with a diagonal of 1.3 is used to display the information"
An encoder is used to control the controller.
The quality of the rations is good, the SMD elements are arranged fairly smoothly, but in places of encoder rations and display there is not laundered flux.
Connection scheme
The Ve2.1S payer board supports JBC and T12 soldering stings.
When using JBC soldering stings, you need to cut the print track between contacts
If after that there is a need to use soldering sting t12 you need to seal the jumper.
The V2.1S payer has the ability to connect both the pump engine and the electromagnetic valve
The new Ve2.1S board has the ability to control either the pump engine (no changes to the board need to be made), or to control the electromagnetic valve (to make changes on the board according to the picture)
In this variant, an electromagnetic valve with a power voltage of 24B is connected to the PUMP connector.
Also complete with a board there are 2 plumes
one is used to connect the soldering connector to the backboard, the other to connect the board to the power supply.
After analyzing the concept, we can assume that this fee is a further development or modification of the v2.1S board.
Identified differences in circuitry:
After the U2 stabilizer, there is no D2 protective stabilizator on 3.3V and an electrolytic capacitor C3 at 100mF'6V;
Instead of a resistive R11 assembly on 4.7kM, separate R2, R6 resistors with the same denomination are installed;
- The board is diluted with a cascade of pump engine control/electromagnetic valve 3, D3, R14, R15;
It is possible to use JBC and T12 soldering stings.
Now consider the pen of the soldering iron HAKKO FX-9501
The unmarked pen, no HAKKO FX-9501, no KSGER stickers. Naturally not original.
The casting is high-quality, over-layered and not. The black rubber cuff is quite elastic.
The handle is carefully assembled, the SW200 position sensor and the NTC termistor (in the shrink) have already been crucified
The swing is standard:
- blue wire, SW200 position sensor
- white wire, NTC termistor
- green wire, grounding sting and general position sensor
- black wire, minus the power sting T12 and and common for the thermostor
- red wire, plus power sting T12
In the GX12-5 connector, the undersized wires are not insulated, which is bad, because the connector itself is metal and there is a chance to get a CK
The wire from the pen of the solder to the GX12-5 connector is silicone, heat-resistant, soft enough. If you compare with what I looked at in the previous review, this one is more elastic. Looks like the one I buy on TaoWao..
Long wires 112cm.
5mm diameter
The wire temperature of 350 degrees Celsius withstood without consequences, only the gloss disappeared at the point of contact with the heated sting
The sting in the handle is fixed well, but still cranks along the axis.
The pros and cons of this pen are well known, I think it makes no sense to repeat.
I will not consider the bonus sting of KSGER T12-BL. There are no clear criteria for determining its quality, everything is quite subjective. Someone likes such stings, someone from them is not happy.
To deal with the work of the new controller decided to collect on its basis a full-fledged soldering station (more on the text of PS).
To assemble ps I will need another body and a power supply.
For this PS was bought a kit for assembling a case of dural profile of a long 130mm black color with a silver front panel. At the moment there is no 130mm case on sale, there is 120, 150 and 180mm. The price at the time of purchase was 66 yuan ,whichis equivalent to $10.
The set includes:
2 segments of the 130 x88 x19 P-shaped durallumini profile
- front panel with tinted glass (glass is not usually pasted, the photo is already pasted by me)
- rear panel with a hole to install the 3v1 network pad
- fasteners: 4pc. M3 with a head and 4pc. M3 with decorative head under hexagonal
Whatever repeats, in detail describe the body and its refinement will not be, who are interested can read here. The only difference: in the last review, the case was bought on components in different stores, and in this case I bought a complete set.
In the same store was bought a network pad 3v1. The price at the time of purchase was 3.5 euros, which is equivalent to $0.53.
The pad is the most common, with a fuse and a power switch, to describe in detail I think there is no sense. The only thing I had to do with it was replace the 5A fuse with 1A.
Also, in the same store was bought a power supply on 24B 4A. This power supply is specially designed for use in duraluminium enclosures with a section of 88x38mm (photo from the store)
The cost of this BP in the store is 39, which is equivalent to $5.92.
Claimed characteristics:
- output voltage: 24B
- output: 4A
Power: 96W
Size 83 x83mm.
The SHIM controller (IC3) is used by the FBI12.
).
The printed board is two-way, but all radio elements are located on the top side of the board and tight enough
I will not draw the concept of this BP, but I will consider the basic cascades and elements:
There is a fuse (FS1) on 3A at the entrance
in the future it is possible to replace the jumper, because the network pad already has one fuse and access to it, to replace, is much more convenient
- termistor (NR1)
- Varistor (VR1)
- input-cancelling filter (L3)
- the filter output installed X2 capacitor 0.047mkFx275V
is a high-voltage diode bridge (D9-D12) at 800B and 8A
There are seating seats on the board to install discrete SMD diodes
- The smoothing capacitive filter consists of two capacitors (C17, C18) 22mkFx400V included in parallel
The total capacity of 44mk, for the stated capacity of 96W is not enough.
For a soldering iron with a T12 stinger with a capacity of 70W in principle enough, especially since the peak power is used only at the initial heating of the soldering sting.
If necessary, you can replace the capacitors of greater capacity, the seats allow.
- N-channel MOSFET (N1) power transistor at 650B and 10A, located on a radiator
- near the radiator is a current resistor (R27) 0.18Om 2W
- A pulse transformer is similar in size to laptops used in pulsed BP.
Topology of the circuit board allows the installation of pulse transformers of other sizes
- high-voltage winding snr with RCD supply: diodes (D7, D8) included in parallel, high voltage capacitor (C10) 10nFx630V, resistors (R13-R16) 200kOm included in parallel
- diode assembly is shunted by the R1C2 chain
- Two electrolytic capacitors (C3, C4) at 680mkFx35V are installed behind the diode assembly
- then we have a two-wet throttle (L2)
- at the output of THE BP installed another electrolytic capacitor (C7) 47mkFx50V, it is shunted ceramics (C5) and load resistor (R3) 10 Om
- the voltage stabilisation chain is made in a classic scheme using IMS (IC1)
and optopaths (IC2)
- between the high-voltage and low-voltage parts of the BP installed inter-barrel capacitor (C13) 1.0nF, unlike the "people's" BP, correct, with the characteristic Y1
External inspection of BP left positive impressions - collected qualitatively, ration neat, flux laundered.
Since the case, the 3v1 network pad and the power supply were bought in one store, the delivery in China to the warehouse of the carrier Meest China they have in common, it amounted to 8,800, which is equivalent to $1.21.
The assembly process is quite simple and has no features. I described it in detail in my review.
In a nutshell, then:
- first to the bp board, keeping the polarity we nail the wire going to the board of the controller
- screw the back wall in the bottom half of the case, insert the network pad 3v1
- insert a BP into the guide enclosures, sing to the network pad wires from the power supply
- Fix on the front with a thermal glue tinted glass
- fix the GX12-5 connector on the front, break the train to the controller board, do not forget to isolate the wires
- fix the controller board on the front with an encoder nut, connect the plume connector to the controller board
- attach the front panel to the bottom half of the front panel
Connect the controller board to the BP
I did it like that.
In this position, it is already possible to connect the power cord and conduct a trial inclusion of PS.
Don't forget about the battery. In principle, it is not necessary to use the CR2032 battery, any lithium on 3B will be suitable. The choice of Chinese engineers is the batteries of CR2032 due to its availability, it is, in most cases, used in laptops to power IMC BIOS.A.
As noted above, the controller board allows the use of both a battery with a connector, and batteries with terminals for locking in the board
I plugged the CR2032 battery into the connector.
By and large, you can use a controller without a battery. In this case, you will lose the readings of the watch on the display. If someone can live without a watch on the PS display, the battery may not connect ;-).
If the PS indicator catches fire during the trial, the PS indicator is visible and the information is visible on it
The case can be closed, the soldering pen can be connected, and further health checks and tuning.
The look at the screen of the new Ve2.1S controller has caused a feeling of light deja vu, somewhere I have already seen it;-)
The information on the screen is exactly the same as that of the v2.1S board. That once again confirms the assumption that the new fee is either a further development or a modification of the board version v2.1S.
If you go to the settings menu, paragraph 19 and see Sys Info, we'll see
HW Version is a version of the board release.
SW Version is a firmware version.
I've never seen a 2.10 version firmware before. My controller originally had 2.09, and when I replaced the display from 0.96" to 1.3" I switched the controller to the firmware of version 2.11. And thanks to the efforts of Kembrik comrade a year ago, we have an extreme firmware from the author 2.12.
During testing of the new timer controller, Ve2.1S determined that its control was exactly the same as the v2.1S version. There are no differences in the settings menu. That is, it is still the same v2.1S controller with a slightly different diluted printed board.
Let us sum up the brief subjective conclusions:
The new fee is a further development or modification of the v2.1S board. I can assume that this is its own development from the store
Its parameters and technical capabilities are similar to the v2.1S board
Added the ability to use JBC soldering stings
Added the ability to connect the pump engine or the electromagnetic valve of the dismantling solder.
During the testing and testing of the PS on the new controller Ve2.1S behaved adequately, no nuances or problems in the work were found.
Can I recommend this fee to anyone?
Probably yes. For those who are going to get a dismantling solder with a tin pump or apply JBC soldering stings, this fee will suit more than. For the rest, the choice of Ve2.1S or v2.1S controller board is not fundamental, soldering stations will work the same way based on them.
As always, thank you all for your attention, I look forward to constructive criticism and comments.
P.S. Reminds me that I have on Google disk lined up all the firmware I know for at soldering stations, hairdryer and combo 2v1. And in the "STM32_T12 and Fen Combo_additional materials" are known to me schemes of soldering stations, BP, as well as instructions on setting up and managing the soldering station v2.0-2.1S and hairdryer.
The item is provided for the store's review. The review is published in accordance with section 18 of the site's Rules.
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the ability to connect JBC stings and with a plug to connect the pomp?
And to finish the review probably did not have enough strength ...
And most likely how you wrote it correctly
That's marketing and nothing more. For I conclude that those who have the old version can not change. It doesn't make sense. It turns out they did, "facelifting" and gave for a new model. By the way, I understand that yours without the Russian language?
Holes on the board. The connector should be nailed by itself.
I got a soldering iron for assembly that needed a soldering iron.
There's even a power supply.
Do you have a code? Let's talk) yes the start of the controller is slow because of the protection... Yes there is Chinese... And what? This prevents him from putting other controllers on the T12 on the shoulder blades?))) I don't care... it's better that way than... folk navel with one profile sting)))
That's if someone chewed the detail, how to screw and where to buy JBC.
I'd put :)
Let it cost four. It's like a monument to the victims of the long-standing T12 hype on the mysku.ru :)
No negativity :)
Collector?
From the power supplies worked ...
It was necessary to solder a couple of wires in the car, gave 12v from the acum, blinked an indicator and died ...
The commotion is to be turned, and the trifle to consider already vision does not allow
Where to dig? If not difficult...
Can later...
There is no fundamental difference in firmware 2.10 and 2.12, profiles for JBC (No.93-100) have been added
drive.google.com/open?id=1Tr0RuEqEyqeqVUw2TEUDV3-ZCoDH2ShC
s.s.
Who else would tell me how to use it?
download from Python 2.7.15
Install it on your PC
Run IDLE
- open the keygen_stm32_t12.py file (file slightly changed)
— F5
Enter codes and get keys
file in additional materials I have on Google
But Dima also do not forget ;)
Added a link to this post in your first review
www.polnaja-jenciklopedija.ru/keygen_t12.html
added a link to the first review where everything is collected
How can you release two different boards under one version???
Although you'll also understand the fuck: Ve2.1S on the board, V2.1S in the test, on my board, bought a year and a half ago - Ver2.1S...
For the review plus, and the Chinese at least minus put.
and the one I know on the link, but the price tag is not humane. But this is because of the density of the installation and the desire to shove with small dimensions of the powerful BP.
The size is much smaller
-- don't fake (so far?)- at the same time twice as powerful and the price is comparable.
- secondly, who prevents you from buying the original T12 stinger?
" in the third, you can't argue with the smaller size and power of the C245... gives a head start.
"And finally, this controller doesn't care what to control, I plugged in the GOOT RX-80HRT-3C stinger, which had the 4th output (1-2 heater, 3-4 TP sensor) combined the findings consistently and connected it with the BC3 profile... everything was perfectly calibrated and solded like the original T12.
Conclusion: cartridges if they are normal and not frank... but, powerful cartridges work equally well even better on the example of C245 ;)
How to connect JBC even in 2.0S in the documentation was written (2015/16g files!):
in this version of the board have realized this possibility
Use as it is and do not steam:
can't find on Tao
Video for seeding.
1. The activation is not more important. It's a day of EEPROM.
2. He's looking at the work of the ppovitnia.
3. The same degree of inclusion.
4. zorodo rucic language.
(Artefacts on the dishe is a jam-battered display)
P.S. If someone wants to participate in the correct translation and offer their options, write in person.
And how do you get it for testing?
Replaced on the ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3" soldering station with OLED1.54" with white font. Stood in the back of the aluminium body KSGER (the front panel is native thin aluminum), only had to bite the clippers gently to bite off the bottom of the display board. The only thing it is not as bright as OLED1.3" installed by the seller, may burn out less will.
BP needs at least 150 honest watts, I have 180.
With this connection, you can easily use the t12 sting without closing the jumper on the board, and unlocking if you need to again sting JBC. Simply in the plug on the pad handle t12 close the contact going on the thermopa with the contact "plus" (green and red in the picture). Thus, when the handle is connected t12 jumper machine closes, and when connected jbc open.
With this connection, the sting works "softer", that is, there is no overheating which is sometimes observed if you connect as described above, with a separate contact on the thermopa. Overheating is manifested when, for example, exposed 350 degrees, and on the regret of another 248, for example, the controller gives a pulse to heat, and before the next iteration of the temperature check the sting manages to heat up to 390 of this pulse, here they are quickly heated, even the firmware behind them does not keep up. But it's a pleasure to be sold out. It is necessary to increase the frequency of iterations of control and temperature control in the firmware.
photo, link
converted into 24 volts
I would like to ask the useers both T12 and C245-C210. In comparison Hakko and JBC what difference does it make? Pros and cons?
According to the JBC stinging scheme, the handle has vibration and temperature sensors, and the original handle has them? And how many wires are there really going out to the outside connector?
In comparison in t12 and jbc I will say that the handle jbc is more convenient than the standard fishing rod and black blue fx9501 from t12. Heating the sting to working temperature at jbc 2-3 seconds against 7-8 seconds at T12. Thin JBC stingers are better than similar T12 cope with the cane-free solder on the boards of phones in heat-intensive places (earth conclusions of capacitors, force throttles, massive landfills). Large stings, such as the t12-k axe (jbc analogue t245-039 and 939), fall about the same, the jbc gain is that heated in a couple of seconds. There will be other stings, I will write here.
I'd be surprised if it was on the back...
T12 has a sting of 70W. JBC - 150W
and heating time because of less
But there is one caveat, to power JBC stings need a BP for 150W, "people's" on 24B and 4A will not pull
this is a serious observation on the application...
Not a frail trance needed: 24B 6.5A 150W
Warming up is almost instantaneous, it is yes, but the temperature when heated slips the set degrees to 50, and then slowly falls to the set. The reaction to the touch of the warmed solder to the massive landfills is very weak, the station thinks about 2 seconds before adding power. At the same time, the power increases by only a few%. Naturally, melting begins in 5 seconds. T12 in this regard is just a "meteor"!
And the reaction to the stand is kind of strange. It works once out of five! At the same time can squeal as six times, and only a couple of times. In general, the feeling of some kind of flaw.
I changed to version 2.12, nothing has changed.
so sting with xger never quality and have not distinguished
- is the pen ready-made or collected?
What kind of sensor is in the handle? Mercury or ball
What kind of stand, how is the sensor oriented in space?
- in the settings of going to sleep (01. Standby) what option is included? I've got a Switch
Along the way, the question: do not know, PIDs to put in the firmware nowhere?
PID ratios in the firmware do not change anywhere, they are "as if" sewn/programmed for each sting individually
I'll try to look at other types of stings in the settings, maybe they'll be better off.
It would be interesting to listen to the experience of working with the stings of alienbody...
What is this? A controller?? Failed location of thermopara? Or low thermal conductivity material? Probably need to buy the original sting and compare.
In the week, perhaps, I will try...
But you didn't even indicate which sting the experiments were going on.
It seems obvious that the greater the heat mass of the sting, the slower the reaction of the controller will come.
On the subject of obviousness: I have a dozen Chinese stings T12 of different form factors. On any of them, the reaction time to the change in the temperature of the tip does not exceed half a second. On my own C245, which judging by the descriptions on the Internet more efficient, more powerful, less oversized, on which people almost without delay melt landfills, the reaction time is about 2 seconds. More incredible than obvious! So I'm trying to figure out what's wrong...
Or at least compare the mass of the c245 and T12 sting. Preferably only the part near the tip of the sting, where there is a heating element.
And until a significant part of this heat goes into the board/polygon (or into the water) the controller does not notice a decrease in temperature.
And in the Chinese stings T12 there is no such "heat storage" (well almost), the active part of the sting is easier, so faster gives heat until the controller detects a drop in temperature and begins to react to it. Therefore, with T12 stings the reaction time of the controller and less. That's probably true.
(this is an explanation "on your fingers")
But this higher inertia of the controller should not be adversely affected by the ration process itself.
And T12 I have a few pieces. They are very different:
And C245s are also very different.
bought by me in China sting C245 on operational realities is much worse than the analogues bought there the same T12 (although according to numerous reviews on the Internet should have been the opposite)!
So it accumulates more heat than T12, which is pictured.
But here the mass is more important, and it is not easy to define it from the photo.
P.S. Thermal conductivity of materials, of course, is also important. It's not even up for discussion.
Is this a landfill? It's not even a two-way coat.
Judging by the fact that the temperature of the sting on the station scoreboard does NOT fall then the heat selection from the tip of the sting almost does not go.
Heat is not pumped into the tip of the sting.
After all, in both cases, "sensor temperature readings" are carried out on a depleted regret.
The sting of 102 in ration is not as much better than the T12-BCF2 as the previous ones, but also noticeable. At the same time, my BCF2 is a bit bad, apparently the Chinese fuck understand what metal in the coating used, and hence the use of the sting 102 is more pleasant.
But the axes 039 and 939 pumped. They look exactly the same, although according to jbc descriptions they should have a slightly different shape, sharpening angle and so on, but that's not the point. The t12 is better, it has faster responsiveness at the first touch. JBC's axe after touching the ration place seems to be thought out for a while. I want to carefully dismantle the tip from one of the axes jbc-x of their own and press the copper tip (also a hatchet) and compare. If the situation improves, it's the materials of the Chinese sting. If not, I'll dig towards the controller and power from VAC.
I have a second JBC pen, so I'm still thinking on the arduinka to assemble a station powered by a trance and see how the power from VAC will affect the ration with the same stings.
It seems that the blade of the "axe" has insufficient thermal conductivity. It is also relatively thin and long, so it can be a bottleneck for heat flow, especially if it has little copper. But the Chinese copper is not enough.
There will be time to throw a couple of rollers as the controller behaves with the power of VAC and VDC, this will never be seen anywhere else.
At the same time, even the T-12 is pumped 82-86 w.
But when melting 50g solder when immersing the sting in a solder on a solder at 5-6mm or landfill (where the dive 1-2mm) in the sting is pumped only 25-30v.
The thicker the stinger and the deeper the dive, the more power it gives to solder or water.
In the photo, the D-4 stinger is fixed the maximum consumption at the time of melting the solder mass.
25 w it consumes when installing 300 C and immersing in solder on 5-6mm (a jar ceramic pad from a single-armed crane with a deepening of 5mm).
And 32W it consumes when installing 330C.
Rejoice, the original T12 stinger at 75 W.
So on any blowtorch, during the rations never pumped full power, because you have a sting does not cool down to 0 at the time of touching the landfill or solder.
When I touch any landfill, the temperature is 2-3 degrees, the controller has 30 to 40 W to restore the specified temperature.
Never noticed that the controller to maintain a temperature of 2-3 degrees pumped 130 w into the sting.
(Rejoice, the original T12 sting at 75 W.) -
You have "forgotten" at least 3 things.
IBB efficiency, UPS capacitors charge at FIRST launch and consumption of the controller with an indicator of 3V.
Or they didn't.
A total of 72w stinger, 3v controller 11w for the loss of UPS and the charge of capacitors.
If the landfill is not pumped full power means the designers missed.
optron, the removal of temperature occurs at the moment of crossing the AC zero
Transformer.
GreatScott www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Arduino-Soldering-Station/.
Beyond the lack of max6675 (as in the author) the reading of the temperature readings from the thermopara I made on lm358, instead of oled applied lcd 16 x2, the firmware its own. Added signal processing from the stand sensor to have a sleep mode.
Compared a bit of the work of using this circuit on a variable toe and controller
stm32 oled V2.1S using DC 24V. On the AC works
about 15% better, but no more. Maybe because it's a trance on 26th, but on
The simistor should fall at least 2 volts, so that in the end the conditions are approximately equal.
Control so far without APS, stupidly when passing the accommising zero (100 times per sec.)
triggers an interruption in which if the thermopara readings are less than the variable set
resistor the temperature value, then open the systor and half-wave heats the sting.
Temperatures jump at around 3 degrees at room temperature and off
I'll wait for max6675 c ali and see how it goes.
In the plans instead of a resistor stick a couple of three buttons or encoder to control, in the firmware
add a menu of all sorts to change and save settings, calibration, etc., instead of a simistor
Use a pair of mosfets, screw up the PID and control the Shim signal.
Everything is collected on the nozzles on the layout board, without the case, with a bunch of wires, so the photo will not be yet.
woka c245
Here's another version on the classic stm32 T12 ennobled enclosure, on display the same "parrots."
On the amplifier, as it turned out, this resistor stood exactly according to the formula of the date on display. The display burned out to the indecency for a couple of years. Now there's like a 910k-com-disconnection display display.
Screen from date stitch on 1.3" display:
We have Vcc 7.8v.
Based on the formula, it turns out to be R1 (7.8-2.5)/12.5uA/424kOm.
A 510kOm was installed on the display board. Good, but not enough. Let's reduce the current by 3 times:
12.5/3=4.166uA. This is the current on which we will count the resistance of R1.
R1 (7.8-2.5)/4.166uA/1.2M. I bet 1.5M.
Without a light filter, the difference in brightness did not notice when the station assembled IMHO became a little dimmer display. Not a TV staring at it from a few meters away... He's going to roll.
The resistor needed is on the display board. Find it easy -- he's one of such big denominations. In my copy in general there was one resistor assembly on 4.7kOm and this resistor on 510km.
Houses about 8 volts, sockets are ungrounded. The LED lamp is not available for inspection...
Is that even normal?
I was not satisfied with it, or rather it was a pity became the forces and funds (about one and a half thousand rubles) spent on the above-described station with a variable current. Well and I decided to improve one of the sting jbc.
There were 5 stings: needle 030, isyla needle 034, hoof 102, knife-shaped 039 and 939. The latter were completely the same, although the JBC catalog should be slightly different (the angle of sharpening at least), and because they were claims one of these two put into expense.
Made a saw along the sting along the entire length of the tip with a slumber, neatly small pliers removed the stinger, in the hand just remained a kind of blank. Then took one of the available copper stings for my old hatch, shortened, planted on the hull blanks. The most problematic is to fix it, because the diameter of the blank in the place where you need to plant a stinger 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the hole in the existing stings of the 900 series ranged from 4 to 4.5 mm. Selected was a naturally stinger with a smaller diameter, and luckily it turned out to be a stinger-like axe. Gently began to compress the mites for the crimmination of the coaxial cable, once 10 along the entire length constantly turning so that the voltage in the metal was evenly along the entire length.
As a result, I got a stinger with a completely copper tip. Immediately decided to check it in the case, and pleasantly surprised, or rather not disappointed as a result, the former problems with thoughtfulness disappeared. As I had previously expected, this indicates a lack of quality of materials on the native Chinese tip. So you can safely change the tips on the problem stings on copper and everything will be the way.
Here's a comparison with 900 stings:
what I was crimpressing:
comparison with the Chinese (above the converted sting):
And from here it is clear why the sting behaved so, in the working part of copper is not enough, the thermal conductivity is small, that's the secret.
Now on this regret I put 300 and sold all not paying attention to heat capacity, that is, put and forgot ... It's falling and it's going to be a good time: the conders, the transistors, and the throttles, until I got the point of having to blow the temperature. Probably as if I get original stings, and compare with them ...
A new version of the blue board has been installed
here's a guess, review do or not?
The differences, at first glance, are not significant:
3.3B pulse stabilizer
- Divorced contact areas for pump engine and valve control cascades
I understand this is a picture from the lot on TaoBao.
in the lot on Tao this picture is not, it's from some Chinese forum
I would like to try a Chinese JBC buy.
They still have both c470 stingers and stations in the collection:
for c210 and from245: link
And for c470: link
Only reviews are not at all on such a station.
T12-11
But your version with a capacity of 75W, i.e. does not reveal danced with245.
And one channel.
And the price turns out that somewhere equally.
"But still, it's not a bad option either.
Although read the comment on the link that gave, and write"Be sure to calibrate!!! With original stings lies 100 degrees plus. Calibration in general is a tinge: when calibrating it is necessary to enter millivolts of thermopapa and when calibrating the heating is disabled - what did the manufacturer think ?"
Link
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